Tuesday, August 28, 2007

the 3rd, 5th, and 7th lanes

Imagine: A street jam packed with thirty year old Peugeots and Hyundais, painted black and white, masquerading as our commonly-recognized "taxi". The sight of one of these taxis is quite jarring. They're nothing like the familiar New York City yellow cabs, or the Blue (call-when-you're-too-drunk-to-walk-home) City cabs. For starters, they are in a much more significant state of disrepair - often with dented sides, windows stuck half down, and fenders that have seen their fair share of benders. (The vast majority of other cars on the street share this aged, beat-up quality.) Sometimes at night, if you're lucky, you can catch a bumpin cab with some sweet LEDs. Aside from their rustically different appearance, driving in one of these things is like driving in another dimension. All elements of time and space are suspended. Back in the states, we drive huge, hulking SUVs, etc, and keep the exteriors of our cars pristine. Here, since the appearance of the cars is not such a concern, neither is space.

Forget everything you know about driving, it doesn't apply. Speed limits, at least posted ones, are nowhere to be found, or observed. Horns are employed regularly, as a means of flagging down passengers, plowing a path, simply saying hi to another cabby, or as a musical addition to the radio. (This happened. It was pretty amusing, but also one of the scarier taxi rides I've been on.) And those little dotted lines that separate "lanes"... fuck that. Contrary to popular belief, those lines actually indicate another driving lane altogether. Two lanes become three, three lanes become five, and before you know it, you're speeding down a seven-lane highway. I'd like to consider myself a pretty good driver (laugh if you will) but I could never do what these guys do. Constantly weaving in and out of five to seven unofficial lanes of traffic, these dudes have NO fear.

What's even more impressive, are the scooters/mopeds. Virtually everything in this town can be delivered, and it's done by means of boxes strapped to the back of scooters. Those third, fifth, and seventh lanes I was talking about multiply yet again for these crazy little scooter men. There is absolutely no such thing as a "lane" to them. They drive between everyone, cross sidewalk meridians, and go faster than everyone. Talk about a high-risk job. I hope those delivery guys get a raise every time they make it back alive.

Now imagine trying to cross the street here.

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Arrival (A Little Belated)

I departed the Metro Detroit Airport at roughly 3:50pm, August 21 (another sign that this trip was meant to be, that's my half birthday), and landed in Frankfurt at roughly 12:30/1:00 am (6am Frankfurt time). During the two hour layover in Frankfurt, I frantically ran around the Airport in search of the "left-behind baggage counter", having realized 20 minutes after landing that I had left my most valuable carry-on in the overhead compartment. (Yes, I forgot my camera. So at the moment, I cannot capture the awesomeness of Cairo. But that will be remedied shortly.) As my life would have it, the timing was ever so slightly off. I had realized my terrible lapse of thinking in just enough time that the crew had already made a sweep of the cabin and gone on their way, and the "left-behind baggage counter" was not yet open. I waited about half an hour and finally got a hold of someone on the convenience phone at the counter, gave them a description of the precious parcel, and darted off to board my flight to Cairo. After all that excitement, and not sleeping much on the previous flight, I pretty much passed out for the four-something hour flight to Cairo. That's ok though, I didn't want my first glimpse on the pyramids to be from an airplane anyway.

The flight from Frankfurt to Cairo had a good number of kids who will be studying at AUC this year. As we got through customs to baggage claim, a very enthusiastic man herded every one of us together under a big AUC sign. We all got our bags and were quickly ushered off to three waiting buses, then uncomfortably crammed inside. I had the luck/joy of sitting in the very back row, where a 1000lb tower of luggage threatened to use me as a landing pad with every bump in the road (the roads are quite bumpy in Cairo too). The four of us in the back seat held on for dear life as passangers were slowly dropped off at their respective dorms.

I'll spare you the traumatic details as to why, but Olivia (the other girl from Kalamazoo) and I are living in an apartment in Cairo. Well, as everyone was loading the buses according to dorm, the drivers and coordinators were trying to figure out where the hell Olivia's and my apartment was located. Eventually, it was figured out, and the horrid bus adventure described above took place. When we arrived at our apartment building, Olivia and I looked at each other in disbelief. It did not look the way we expected it would. On top of that, an old woman, who spoke only Arabic, immediately rushed forward and started grabbing our bags. It turned out that she was helping us, but imagine our surprise given the circumstances. We were crammed into a small elevator- all three of us and our luggage - and were led to our apartment. A tall black Egyptian man (Arabic speaking only) was there to meet us. He spoke to us some, but alas, we did not understand. I can only assume that he was welcoming us and offering to help settle us in. Olivia and I stared, probably looking quite confused and frightened. He left shortly and we were alone in the strange, new apartment. We roamed around, trying to feel it out, not sure how to respond. A little while later, our landlord, Hossam, and a lady we had made contact with, Stacey, showed up to welcome us. Hossam told us that the black Egyptian man who had met us was named Mahmoud, and he was very friendly and willing to help. Hossam himself has turned out to be most accomodating and very willing to help us with anything.

We talked with Hossam and Stacey a while, just trying to calm our nerves a little. I think it helped. After a while, Hossam and Stacey took us to exchange money, buy cell phones, and show us around the neighbohrhood some. They even took us out to dinner. Being exhausted and very nervous about our new situation, Olivia and I retired to the apartment, and restlessly slept our first night in Egypt.

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Blame It On Her...

Hatshepsut.

For those of you wondering, "why Egypt", she is your answer. While, in all seriousness, I do not believe I am Hatshepsut reincarnate, I do hold her responsible for my fascination with Egypt (my mother is further blamed for encouraging me). I have the most vivid memory of reading a big, fat chapter book on Hatshepsut (back in the day when "chapter books" were intimidating) and writing a stunning book report on it - beginning my fascination. If you don't know anything about Hatshepsut, let me clue you in: King(Queen) Hatshepsut was one of the most powerful and accomplished female rulers of ancient Egypt. Like any great ancient Egyptian ruler, she is surrounded by incestual scandal, and, having swiped the pharaocy from her young son, questioned legitimacy - how intriguing. Nonetheless, she went down in history as being awesome. To add to the awesomeness, her body was identified in June of this year. So, perhaps this is destiny.

In any case, I am going to Egypt. I leave Tuesday afternoon, and will be back mid to late January. What will I be doing there? Well, lots of stuff. (And that's why there's a blog.) Primarily studying. I will be at the American University in Cairo (AUC) for one semester, studying Middle Eastern Culture and Arabic, in order to fulfill requirements for my major. (My major is another big factor in why i'm going to Egypt.) Other than that, I will be travelling and generally experiencing life in Cairo.

So, how am I feeling about all this? Currently pendulating between so-excited-I-can't-wipe-this-smile-off-my-face and so-nervous-my-heart-is-going-to-stop-or-I'm-going-to-throw-up.

The next post will come to you from Egypt.

'ahlan.




p.s. mad props if you can pronounce Hatshepsut on the first go at it.